What happened with the Sainsbury's filter coffee machine this morning?

by Reiss Gunson on Thursday, 30 December 2010 13:09

CAUTION: These images may be disturbing to those with obsessive-compulsive tendencies.  That is to say, we've made a real mess!  We used exactly the same batch of Honduran coffee, on exactly the same grind setting, and exactly the same amount (45g).  We noted the caution on the Swissgold box to only use a medium grind if making more than 6 cups, but in the interests of conducting a meaningful test against the 'permanent' nylon filter that the machine was supplied with we had to take a chance that would get away with an espresso grind.  In short; we didn't, as these images show.  The first image shows just how badly we have flooded the filter, with fine coffee grinds nicely distributed through the inside of the machine, very clever.  What an idiot!  The second and third images show a continuation of the carnage as we move from the top to the bottom of the machine.

So what's the good news?  Well I've not spent much time in the past researching these kind of coffee makers, but has spent a considerable amount of time doing so in the last 24 hours.  One of my concerns was whether the brew temp would be correct, and if not, whether it could be altered.  Well, on this machine at least, using Londinium Honduran SHG coffee around 10 days old the temp was absolutely fine.  I did not measure this objectively, but the tongue is king in coffee; it wasnt sour (too cold), nor burnt (too hot).  It was sweet and nutty and far better than what I anticipated from a GBP14.99 machine.

The KF4 Swissgold filter has made an incredible difference, if only it fitted correctly in the machine, and if only I exercise a little more common sense next time.  The Swissgold filter also produced a far stronger cup of coffee than the nylon filter supplied by the factory, the result of much smaller openings in the laser cut Swissgold filter compared with the relatively large mesh of the nylon filter.  If you wanted to be sniffy you might say that it was the result of the water we lost, effectively increasing the concentration of the brew.  This will have contributed, but the increase in strength was more pronounced than the relatively small of water that did not end up in carafe.  Indeed it is likely that some of the water flowing over the top of the filter and down through the body of the machine, before working its way back into the top of the carafe will have had a dilutive effect as it will hardly have been exposed to any coffee on its scenic route to the opening in the top of the carafe.

Another thing I noticed with the factory supplied nylon 'permanent' filter is the amount of coffee it let through into the carafe (when you're daft enough to grind it that fine what do you expect I can hear you retort).  I wish I had the presence of mind to stop emptying the carafe last night of the remainder of the coffee made with the nylon filter and take a photo as there was quite a lot sloshing around in the bottom of the carafe after it had been resting for a while.  Anyway, I remember to take an photo of the fine coffee grounds that were present in the bottom of the carafe when I used the Swissgold filter tonight.  I feel this is a respectable result considering we were using coffee ground to espresso fineness.  The nylon filter let through an order of magnitude more, at least 3 times as much.  This results in coffee that tastes like mud as a result of the high number of coffee grinds sloshing around in your brew.  I thought to sniff the nylon filter tonight, and yes, the coffee tastes exactly like the smell of the nylon filter.  If you are in the shop considering purchasing a filter coffee machine of this type give the nylon filter a discrete sniff before you make your purchase and expect to be reminded of that fairly unpleasant smell when you drink your coffee from the machine using the nylon filter.

Despite the modest capital outlay for this machine, the only thing I could really criticise about the machine was (i) the KF4 Swissgold filter doesn't quite fit inside (& I suspect this might be intentional on the part of the manufacturer), and (ii) the swinging gate style tray that accommodates the coffee filter is not to my liking.  It is difficult to close if you open it without removing the carafe from below.  Additionally the machine weighs next to nothing unless the reservoir is filled with water so there is very little mass to anchor the machine as you try to overcome the retaining latch when you open and close the gate.  This does not inspire confidence when you are trying to perform with one hand.

The conclusion of the matter is (i) try to determine if the machine you are considering purchasing will accommodate the KF4 Swissgold filter (I had assumed it would fit any nominal '12 cup' filter machine, as you have seen I have proven this isn't the case) (ii) follow the instructions on the KF4 Swissgold filter! (iii) you don't need to spend a lot of money to make good filter coffee in relatively large volumes (iv) this machine is very basic lacking any digital clock/timer to pre-set the machine to run automatically; the absence of these catchy consumer features doesnt make the coffee taste any better (V) the golden rule for all these filter machines: do not leave the carafe on the built in element; it turns the coffee into a nasty substance tasting like tar, significant enough to be easily detectable in as little as half an hour of sitting on the element.

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