I have spoken with the factory just now and the pressure switches left Italy on monday and are expected this Thursday
The plan is to get the LR awaiting these pressure switches out the door this Friday
If you have questions, please feel free to contact me
Key contacts are back from holiday this week and i have also sourced some from a third party as emergency back up, so one way or another we will get at least some Mater pressure switches in stock this week
This has the highest priority this week and i will post an update here as soon as the UK open for business today, monday 14 May
reiss.
We finally have new stock of the distribution funnels and are working to clear the back orders containing these items quickly
I apologise for this disruption to getting orders out in a timely manner
Feel free to email me if you have any concerns
Kind regards
Reiss.
After a rather long wait we are pleased to announce that we have just added an IMS basket to our offering
You can find it here; https://londiniumespresso.com/store/accessories/p-264-ims-filter-basket-b702tfh26-rated-dose-18-20g
If you are considering the purchase of one of our machines we recommend this basket as an optional extra as it is of greater capacity than the basket that is supplied with the machine
for those of you wondering where your distribution funnel is, i am pleased to inform you that they have been sent to the polishers and we are chasing hard - i would expect to see them in a day or two and as soon as they arrive we will start booking them out
i apologise for stocking out of this item; we have take action to ensure to minimise the risk of it happening again
kind regards
reiss.
Its low tech, but it works; a roll of aluminium kitchen foil - ideally use just the former after the aluminium has been all used, or a cling film former, or a baking paper former, etc
Place one end where you think the leak is and the other end to your ear
If you are using a former with aluminium foil still on it, it is safest to unplug the machine first as you are using electrically conductive material
using one of these formers will allow you to quickly locate the source of the leak
the two main culprits are of course the safety valve and the anti-vac valve - it is highly unlikely that you will have a leak at a fitting
I had one of the new design safety valves sitting on the shelf here and i could hear the faint whisper of steam escaping from my machine that had the original design of safety valve on it, so yesterday i decided to fit the new one
The first thing that is obvious is the anti-tamper wire retainer is no longer present on the new design - the anti-tamper mechanism is a sealed grub screw instead
The next thing you notice is that the nut is machine much higher on the body of the safety valve; this offers the significant benefit of allowing the wrench you are using to remove or fit the safety valve to clear the top of the anti-vac valve that is right alongside the safety valve
Finally, and perhaps most importantly, the new design seals better; my heating element went from a 47 second cycle to a 1 minute 19 second cycle, which is a significant reduction is energy consumption so this valve will quickly pay for itself
If you are working on an LR, which would be unlikely as i think most of them have the new style of safety valve, i recommend removing some of the copper pipes to allow you easier access to swing your wrench
I enjoy using this milk jug as it puts me in close contact with the temperature of the milk
Obviously it needs to be sold with a silicone rubber sleeve to protect the user from burning themselves, but for my own use i remove the sleeve as i think if it gets too hot to hold you have burnt not only your hand but the milk too
The stainless steel is thin so the heat conducts through the jug without too much delay, and the lack of a handle just makes it easy to grasp
As you can see in these two images, i have a hammer that is too light (200g) and another that is too heavy (750g) for striking wrenches on a copper boiler
I have set to put that right ordering a 12oz (450g) hammer with a wooden handle which i will cut down from the standard 300mm length to a more suitable 200mm length
The process of striking a set wrench to free a fitting on a copper boiler, as opposed to simply pulling harder and harder on the wrench by hand, is critically important if the copper boiler is not be twisted
It is the same process when tightening fittings down onto the copper boiler - dont pull harder and harder; plan to strike the wrench 3 times with the hammer as you feel the fitting begin to tighten on the thread
The first strike will be met with almost no resistance from the wrench; with the second strike you will feel the nut tightening on the thread, and then on the third strike the wrench will turn through a very small angle as it comes up tight, less than one eight of a turn; this is an indicator to you that a fourth strike will land you in trouble by tearing out the threads on the fittings
Far better to use a little thread sealant like loxeal 55-03 to ensure a pressure tight seal than overtighten a fitting and run the risk of damage
